25 January to 1 February 2010 Cape St Francis to Durban (The End of the Road)
We left the sun behind us at Cape St Francis and spent two days in Port Elizabeth where it rained most of the time. “PE” as it is affectionately known by South African is a busy dock town but there is plenty of beach on the outskirts of town at Summerland and we stayed at Pine Lodge Resort (T4A). The good hours walk along the boardwalk to the main beach area was the first major exercise we have had for a long time and we could have done with a hot bath to soak the old muscles in at the end of it, but hey ho that’s camping for you! In the wind, fine drizzle and sea fret, as JC cooked over an open fire, it reminded him of childhood picnics on the beach at Bracken Hill and cooking pancakes over the fire in the rain and hailstones.
Memories of Bracken Hill............... Along the way.......................
With a provisional shipping date for the second week in February from Durban we sometimes seem to be killing time on this last part of the trip. One of the most difficult parts in planning a trip like this is “the end of the road” trying to tie in shipping dates, flight dates etc etc is something that can’t be done too far in advance, still, with the weather as it is in Europe we are quite happy to “hang about” for a while.
Moving off the coast we drove into the Transkei or “Frontier Territory” as it is now known. If my memory serves me well this is Wilbur Smith territory – its a long time since I read any of his books but the landscape and the names along the road seem to ring a bell. The land is much much greener with soft rolling hills. Driving in and out of the clouds we came across small colourful villages nestling in the valleys, huge herds of cattle, plantations and towns with names like Lothians, Motherwell, Mthatha or Umbalulu a strange mix of African and European in this “rainbow country”. The farming here ranges from small plots of maize around the rondavel houses of the villages to large scale farming on the many large estates scattered amongst the hills. We bought six delicious, golden, cling peaches for just 60p and a pineapple for just 40p from a couple of ladies at the roadside – bet Tesco’s can’t match that.
Stopping for fuel and cash in Grahamstown was a “fun” experience. At the fuel station the friendly attendant asked us where our vehicle was from. When we replied “England” he responded “Which city is that near to?” When we laughed and responded “Manchester United” the light went on his brain!! Getting cash was another story – all of the ATMs were located together in a small strip of shops – pedestrian zone – no security guards around. JC paid a “car guard” 50p to look after the Toyota and blocked the entrance to the ATM whilst I drew the cash before we returned sharpish to the security of the vehicle. Strangely, we feel more intimidated here in South Africa than we did in many of the other African countries. I’m not sure why – is it the people, the vast difference between the haves and the have nots or is it simply the high level of security around homes and businesses, most of which have high metal fences topped with barbed wire or electrified fences and signs reading “SECURITY MONITORES – ARMED RESPONSE”? Whatever it is, it sometimes make for an uncomfortable feeling in confined or exposed areas in this country.
We spent the night at Mthatha where, the only Europeans at the Garden Court Hotel, we felt far away from the South Africa of the Afrikaans, Boers and Brits. I think we were a bit of a novelty really – the ladies in the dining room looked after us very well, smiling and giving us the thumbs up all of the evening!
The next morning we climbed higher and higher and entered Kwazulu Natal where the landscape became more dramatic even in the low cloud. The farms were few and far apart but the cattle were many grazing on the rich grass fed by fast flowing rivers and beautiful lakes – as well as the odd irrigator. Once again we saw the evidence of the European settlers with farms named “Bannockburn” and even “Welton Dale”. This is Zulu country and you can imagine how the troops must have felt as hundreds of them came over the top of the high plateaus waving their short spears. The many battlefields are marked along the way. We spent the night at the Himeville Arms Hotel, a recommendation from Anita at Cape St Francie – great choice – thanks Anita. With its tartan upholstery, timbered ceiling and open fire in the bedroom , were we in Africa or Scotland??? They even had pickled eggs here Claire!!
In the misty morning we headed up to the Sani Pass – four wheel drive vehicles only. Not as hairy a drive as we had expected and we didn’t find the highest pub in South Africa Bob!! However, in the breaks between the clouds the views were spectacular, giving us a taste of what we could expect from the uKhahlamba – Drakensberg range and World Heritage Site. Looking for a place to camp was difficult and we were not as enthusiastic as usual, particularly as, at the only one we found, the rain had turned the access road into a mud slide and we had to help a Toyota pick up by putting a rope on her and pulling her out, much to the relief of her owner and the four passengers in the back. A few miles away we came upon the Rosetta Hotel advertising accommodation, restaurant and bar. Well the accommodation was a bit of “work in progress” but clean, the food in the restaurant was absolutely excellent and Ian, Charlene and Tony made us feel right at home.
8967 8942 8943 8946 8947 8955
From Sani Pass in the “Southern Berg” to Cathedral Peaks in the “Central Berg” we were treated to some of the most dramatic scenery we have seen in South Africa with high plateaus, waterfalls, wondrous peaks peeping through the cloud, rushing rivers and winding dirt roads, it was a breathtaking place to spend the final few days of our road trip. We set up camp at the foot of the mountains in Didima Camp (T4A), cooked our supper over an open fire and had our breakfast surrounded by this marvellous scenery covered in a bright blue clear sky – what more could one ask for? As we left the camp, the local baboons came to try and steal some breakfast. Keeping the security guards on their toes, they easily climbed over the fences, clambered up onto the roof, slid down the lamp poles and tipped over the rubbish bins looking for tasty morsels!
That was definitely the last bit of dirt road for our faithful Toyota who was certainly beginning to look a bit travel weary covered in mud and dust, so as soon as we hit the “tar” we started looking for somewhere to give her a much needed wash and brush up before her long, lonely journey home in the container. At Malek Service Station in Estcourt they did her proud and she was looking as good as new in no time at all.
The last of the tar........... She's done us proud.................. and deserved some TLC.............
We knew we had had our last bit of camping for this trip when the site at Howick turned out to be closed but the recently renovated Howick Hotel was a great place to spend the night. With secure parking we were able to sort out the boxes in the back of the Toyota, get rid of the rubbish and generally get her ready for the next stage of her trip, whilst managing to have a quick look around Howick, a small town with wonderful waterfall and lots of farming history, as well as visiting the falls.
As usual, the last few miles, as we entered Durban were a mixture of feelings – poignancy at the end of what has been a fantastic journey through Africa, excitement and looking forward to getting home and talking about what next????
With a confirmed loading date for Friday 5th February, we are now firmly ensconced in luxury treating ourselves to a well deserved break at another Southern Sun Hotel with time to reflect on our journey and talk over our memories of the places we have seen and the wonderful people we have met along the way. No more cooking, no more sharing toilets and showers with other people, no more handwashing, clothes are now hanging in a wardrobe and JC has had great pleasure unpacking his soap bag and spreading it all over the bathroom! But what an experience!!!
Well, this may be the end of the road but not the end of the journey. Toyota will share a container with Joerg and Anya’s Toyota, from Germany, and ship back to Rotterdam where JC will meet her and hopefully come home (or carry on to Vladivostock!!!). We have a few more days to explore Durban before we fly home. In the next few days we will organise our flights. Keep reading – next update soon!!
Just before we go – here’s a few pictures from “John’s World”
